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Wednesday, March 19, 2014

our little and by no means exhaustive london restaurant guide


franco manco pizza at brixton market row

the mister and i have lots of friends passing through town. much as we wish we could take everyone everywhere, we can't. so. the next best thing is to forward our little london list of places we've been to and like. much as we're thrilled to share our favourite haunts, i'm not the biggest fan of free publicity. this is not a food blog (god forbid!) and i try not to photograph food unless it's truly photo-worthy. no, not hating on food blogs, just that i rather leave it to those talented enough to articulate what biting into molten uni feels like. we've not accepted any favours nor freebies from these restaurants and any views are purely mine. i also hope they don't spit in my food the next time, especially after commenting that the service in some places was lacking... being the cheap date i am, i realise in retrospect that most of the places have a good value set lunch in common. £26 can go very far (3 course set lunch at 1 star establishment!) or not far at all (soup, sandwich and coffee x 2 at pret) so it's all about hunting down that ever-elusive deal in the sweet spot of value and quality. lengthy pre-amble aside, here it is! have linked the website and the occasional post from my archives if i've mentioned it before. hope it's of use if you're in london at some point. happy feasting, and would love to hear from you if you've liked / disliked any of the places mentioned.

Japanese
Ikeda Mayfair
30 Brook St, Mayfair, London W1K 5DJ
020 7629 2730
Small family-run restaurant hidden away on a quiet street opposite the famous Claridge’s Hotel. Seasonal menu with regular favourites. Good for authentic Japanese cuisine. Must order: tempura prawn wrapped in cha soba (life-changing!!!), tonkatsu and yomenaki (?) somen (special Japanese noodles). Unless absolutely craving, we don’t usually order the sushi / sashimi.

Japanese clients first brought the mister and spoilt him with the £160 omakase. There are also less extravagant sets! An unusual mix of Japanese businessmen and American tour groups. We particularly like the good value (£20) sushi / sashimi / tempura set lunches and is our go-to for Sunday lunch.

Sake No Hana Mayfair
Contemporary Japanese, feels like being inside a giant “ang klong” the bamboo musical instrument. Good value pre-theatre / early dinner set for £30. Interesting cocktails, well-dressed crowd. Same owner as Hakkasan.

Tsukiji Mayfair
Traditional Japanese restaurant. Not a big restaurant but open concept and chic interior. If you’re after something simpler, Sakura just down the road is more wallet-friendly.

Zuma Knightsbridge
Roka’s big sister. Tasting menu is expensive but nice for special occasions. Similar contemporary / fusion Japanese cuisine.

The Sloane branch of the Marbella restaurant of the same name. Kitsch art deco interior and dishes with twee names like ‘Forever Love’ or something to that effect. Good value set lunch, not too busy and great attention to detail and presentation. Would go by if in the area but might not make a special trip if not already in Chelsea.

Nizuni Charlotte Street
“outlet” Japanese probably isn’t fair but whatever new dish Roka is serving, Nizuni will produce something similar in a matter of weeks at a lower price. Good value and always fast service, important when jetlagged and wanting to turn in early.  Consistent Japanese of good quality. Used to have an early bird special where it was 30% off a la carte if ordered before 7pm. Check if it’s still ongoing.

Roka Charlotte Street
£55/£75 tasting menu. Goodfor groups, big portions. If there are 3 people, you could comfortably share 2 tasting menus. More fusion than traditional Japanese but done with a good flair. We like Shochu (the bar downstairs)  with DJ for pre/post dinner drinks. Closes late. We stayed till 1am the last time (not our fault, seated at 930 and ordered the tasting menu...) and the service got understandably sloppy as the night wore on.

Sushi Tetsu Bloomsbury
7 seater sushi restaurant. Have to be incredibly organised to get a booking (call exactly a month earlier at 10am and keep ringing till you get through, if at all!) but worth the effort. Proprietor is a one man show and makes sushi with the greatest pride.

Yashin High Street Kensington
Contemporary Japanese just off High Street Kensington, consistently high standards. Sleek sushi counter and cosy (read: dim with minimal mobile reception) lower ground dining area. On the pricier side but they’ve a good value chirashi / bento sort of lunch for <£20. A la carte menu is interesting, the motto is ‘without soy sauce, but if you want to’.

The Shiori Bayswater
Fine Japanese omakase with a choice of seasonal and premium tasting menus. Always a surprise and dainty portions of quality over quantity. Well-spaced out so you do feel full by the end, but not overly so. My birthday dinner of choice two years running!

Eat Tokyo various locations
Cheep and cheerful Japanese in the city with great value set lunches. Don't expect to have your mind blown but for <£10 for an authentic gyu-don I'm not complaining. Popular with Japanese salarimen and student-types.

Casual Japanese noodle options
Ramen in thick collagen-laden stock. Also try the ‘cock scratching’ (minds out of the gutter, it’s fried chicken bits…) and home-made soft-serve ice cream. Awesome sesame soft serve, and the shiso was very interesting. Seasonal and luck of the draw to see what they’ve whipped up that day. Standard dropped recently. Was a regular for about two years but either my tastes have changed or it’s not as good as it used to be. Visiting friends who tried were also disappointed but that could’ve been my oversell.

Tonkatsu* Soho
Where we go for ramen when we can’t be bothered to queue at Bone Daddies. I’m not a fan but the mister says it’s improved.

Koya* Soho
Udon! Cold udon in dipping sauce and seasonal specials. Koya Bar next door is similar but smaller menu and a tad more casual.


Chinese
Hakkasan Mayfair
Low lights and loud music at night but just low lights in the day, unless seated upstairs during lunch time then it’s quite bright with a business lunch vibe. Modern chinese cuisine with a good dimsum menu. Must try the venison char siew soh.

The closest to a “cha teng” in London. Only ever been for dimsum and surprisingly well-priced for the upmarket locale. About £20/person for dimsum and that’s with the mister over-ordering as usual. No nonsense, fuss free, and a little harried. Be prepared to wait up to 20min despite having a reservation.

Gold Mine* Bayswater
102 Queensway, London W2 3RR
020 7792 8331
Doesn’t take reservations so go before 7pm or after 9pm to avoid a terrible queue. Traditional Cantonese cooking and most famous for plump and juicy roast duck. Our standard order is deboned roast duck, sweet and sour pork, fried rice with chicken and salted fish, sambal kang kong and specialty steamed egg with dried scallops and prawn.

Royal China Bayswater
Famous for dimsum but we go for the lobster noodles. Baker Street is the original branch but they don’t take reservations and we’ve once braved a 90min queue and swore never again. If you do go to Baker Street, however, try ordering off the menu. A connoisseur friend introduced us to the Thai-style tiger prawn with fried tang hoon and we've not looked back. Lobster noodle best ordered one lobster at a time. Because ordering lobster noodle with two lobsters is inevitably less than 2 x one lobster noodle orders. Go figure!

Min Jiang High Street Kensington
Chinese restaurant with beautiful views of Kensington Park so best to go during daylight. A little hit and miss re: dimsum, some dishes are better than others. Must order the xiao long bao and the peking duck (pre-order). Also the fish soup with salted vegetable is something I’ve not had at many places.

Hutong The Shard
A great way to see the city from the tallest building in Western Europe compared to paying to ride the lift to the viewing platform. I’ve been told on good authority that the men’s room is one of the best with its floor to ceiling windows and unobstructed view of the city below. Breath-taking views aside (hey, we’re from Singapore, we’re used to 60+ storey skyscraping hotels…) the food and drinks are great. Have the soft shell crab (ask for less spicy if you’re weaksauce like us) and it’s served in a whopping huge lantern-basket. An inside tip from the charismatic owner was, “The best view is from 9.30pm so don't go too early or if you have an early dinner then stay around for desserts and cocktails in aqua shard on level 31 and watch the night view suddenly materialize.”


Korean
Jubo* Shoreditch
Korean fried chicken washed down by Korean beer. Very casual! Young and grungy, more than its fair share of hipsters. Avoid if you don’t like crowds or loud music. If you're after authentic Korean food though, your best bet would be the small K-town in New Malden (suburb in South West London in Kingston upon Thames).

Indian
Benares Mayfair
In a moment of insanity, the mister ordered the £60 tandoori chicken. Hands down the best tandoori ever (and we’ve had plenty of good tandoor to compare!) but still unsure if it was really worth SGD120 for a bird. Good value set dinner though and he's convinced it’s the best Old Fashioned he’s ever had. Pity we didn’t get the bartender’s name.

Italian
Assagi Notting Hill
1st floor, 39 Chepstow Place
London
W2 4TS

020 7792 5501 

Our little Italian secret. Beautiful on a sunny afternoon with floods of soft, natural light. The waiters are charming and knowledgeable. To borrow John Lewis’ line, we’ve never been knowingly oversold at Assagi. The waiter would recommend a cheaper bottle of wine if he felt it was better. Hearty, seasonal Italian with the freshest ingredients. Can’t recommend this enough and it’s easily our favourite Italian in London. 
Lucio’s Chelsea
Authentic owner-run Italian with fresh seasonal produce. I like how it’s not salty, in contrast to how many restaurants in London are heavy-handed with the salt. Good value lunch £20 for 1 or 2 courses, £25 for 3 courses.

Zafferano Knightsbridge
Near Harrods, well-heeled crowd. Often meet familiar faces from Singapore there. Again, good quality, hearty Italian. Less expensive than one would anticipate for the area. £45 for a 3 course dinner and similarly competitively priced (£30?) for a 2-3 course lunch.

Bocca di Lupo Mayfair
Hazarded the pop up in the park last summer and was impressed by the no-choice 3 course dinner. Given the limitations of the make-shift kitchen, it was beautifully set up in a big white tent with fairy lights. The main restaurant is throbbing with energy and we can't resist the dairy-free dark chocolate sorbet from Gelupo, their shop across  the street.

French
Classic French. Order the chicken the day before if you’re well organised.

Gastropub
Harwood Arms Fulham
Casual, perfect for a low key meal. Shabby chic interior with a country house feel. Excellent dishes, each very well executed using the freshest ingredients and deftest of touches. Was pleasantly surprised by just how good it was. It’s in a residential neighbourhood though and almost impossible to get parking at lunch time.


Modern British
Medlar Chelsea
Our go-to when we’ve friends in town. Consistently high qualitycuisine and impeccable service. Very fairly priced (£25 for 3 course set lunch) and excellent value for money. A bit hard to get to from city centre (tube to Sloane Square then bus because it’s a 20-30min walk otherwise!) but one could do worse than walking off lunch along King’s Road. Order the crab raviolo to start and underblade fillet for the main. The tarte tatin (for two) is amazing.

Ledbury Notting Hill
Lunch tasting menu (£100 without wine) if you don’t feel like a long-drawn 5h dinner. Alternatively, can always have dinner a la carte but feel the ambience is better enjoyed in daylight. Our dear friends gifted us a meal there as a wedding present and we're so grateful for their generosity!

Modern British cuisine with delightful extras (amuse bouche, pre-dessert, petit fours) even if you only order the 3 course set lunch. Seasonal menu and always well executed. At <£30 for a 3 course set lunch, it’s great value.

Kitchen Table Charlotte Street
Behind a heavy curtain at Bubble Dogs. 11 course tasting menu, 2 sittings. Open kitchen concept and the seats are literally around the chef’s kitchen. Great for foodies to watch the artful display and all the work that goes behind beautiful plating. In-laws were a bit cheeky and wanted to get a hotdog on the way out. James, the chef owner, was mock horrified.

Dinner by Heston Knightsbridge
For those who want a taste of Heston magic without having to make the trek to Fat Duck in Bray. Mandarin Oriental is a beautiful hotel and in the day, the restaurant looks into Hyde Park. Order the Meat Fruit (liver parfait), Snails Porridge and Tipsy Cake for dessert. The liquid nitrogen ice cream (churned at your table in 5minutes) is a visual and gastronomic treat.

Bar Boulud Knightsbridge
Good steak and drinks. French food is a laid back lounge-y setting. When we last went, my father was checked for taking photos inside. Beware strict staff and no photos policy. Another good value set lunch.

Koffman’s Knightsbridge
Good value set lunch inside effortlessly chic Berkely Hotel.

Quirky and fun, Sketch is more well-known for its unique egg-shaped toilet cubicals. The dining room serves modern cuisine and the food was done very well. There’s a trippy bar downstairs, and a nice-looking tea salon. Usually a hit with friends visiting London.

40 Maltby Street* Southark
Modern British tapas-style. Interesting selection of wines and knowledgeable sommelier. Good for light meals at the bar or small groups. Go early (1130 on a Saturday) to beat the crowd.

The Clove Club Shoreditch
Formerly the Shoreditch Town Hall, there’s a £55 no-choice tasting menu with seasonal produce. When we went in February, there was pine seasoned deep fried buttermilk (?) chicken bites and uni among other delectables. They also cure their own meats on site (you’ll see the joints hung out to cure by the front room) and the cold cuts had a subtle and distinct quality about them.

Casual
Patty & Bun* Mayfair
One of the best burgers in London but feel standard has dropped in the last few months. Used to have best chicken wings too but when we last went, they were disappointing. The Jose burger is a must-try though! Doesn’t take reservations so be prepared to wait in line, or order and take away to eat in nearby Hyde Park. It’s opposite Selfridges so a good break from shopping / can shop while having the member of your party who drew the short straw queue for you.


Bubbledogs* Charlotte Street
No reservations so go off-peak or be prepared to queue. Simply put, they serve hotdogs with champagne. Good selection of bubbles across a wide price range. Tasty hotdogs and a novel idea to pair with champagnes.

Duck & Waffle Liverpool Street
Abysmal service. Have a been a few times and it’s always frustrating trying to get attention / orders  in / drinks topped up etc. But it’s got cracking views of the city and great forvisitors, a wallet-friendly alternative to Hutong and the views from the Shard. Order crispy pigs ears (shredded and served in a brown paper bag with wax seal!) and eponymous duck & waffle. Open 24/7 but runs a reduced menu at night. Always crowded so book or go off-peak. Last Christmas Eve, we went by at 2am after prepping our Christmas goose. Snazzy bar and good drinks too!

Dirty Burger Vauxhall
The mister's all-time favourite burger in London. Pokey, smokey grill under the railway tracks with the shortest of menus i.e. burger with / without cheese, fries and milkshake but when you only serve one dish, it's almost guaranteed to be amazing. Onion rings are freshly cut and battered, and all patties handmade on site and cooked with tender loving care. Thick milkshakes if you feel your arteries aren't sufficiently clogged after the burger. Good stuff. Hard to find but worth the search. 

Casual and serves lobster amongst other things
Burger & Lobster* Mayfair / Shoreditch / Soho
£20 for grilled lobster, salad and fries. Also £20 for a burger, salad and fries. Or a lobster brioche roll. No brainer to order the grilled lobster. But the lobster brioche is also very good and great for sharing if you’re feeling extra hungry. Drinks are expensive (£10 for a weak cocktail!) and poor value.

Steam & Rye Shoreditch
Formerly Bank of New York building and it’s maintained the huge columns and USA paraphernalia. Dancing girls on Friday night and drinks for groups served in huge shark / dinosaur / crocodile heads (see no. 7 in link) complete with sparklers and musical extravaganza. Imagine the house music changing to Star Wars / Indiana Jones theme as the waitstaff don costumes and present the drinks with attention-grabbing fanfare. Overflowing with banker / baller / pseudo-baller types.

5cc Shoreditch
New bar under pub. Most people were there for drinks but we enjoyed the food (£25 for lobster with salad and fries) too. Dark and a little dingy but that seems to be fashionable now.

Big Easy Chelsea
£20 for grilled lobster, salad, fries and a frozen margarita. Live music, themed nights (different dishes go on special offer depending on the day so call ahead to check!) and a relaxed vibe like you’d expect in an American diner.

Brunch
Grainger & Co.* Notting Hill
Popular Aussie café that has a long queue after 930am. Our go-to for when we’ve houseguests / friends from Singapore landing at 0555h. The ricotta pancakes and corn patties are consistently yummy. And they make one of the best flat whites in London.

Laduree Harrods* Knightsbridge
French patisserie that does a delightful brunch menu. All pastel teacups and crockery. Order the French toast! Breakfast set is not good value (we’ve done the math, you don’t really save and probably designed to trap indecisive tourists) so better to go a la carte.

Roka Canary Wharf 
Same as above and said to do a decent brunch with champagne for an additional £25.

The Modern Pantry Clerkenwell
Fusion cooking with an Asian twist. The waffles with laksa leaves was good!

Great space with natural light and artwork. I appreciated how the guests with children were banished to a separate wing so as to spare the rest of us mayhem. It’s a chilled sort of place and the fabulous (male) host was wearing a skirt. We’re cool with that and think it’s great that people are comfortable enough to be themselves and express themselves however they want. BUT. Not somewhere I’d bring my parents/ more conservative guests. Standard brunch fare, like it for the ambience and vibe more than the actual food quality. Regent’s Canal is a lovely area and a nice walk after.

Berner’s Tavern
Oxford Street
Crazy high ceilings with framed paintings all over the walls. Feels like you’ve wandered into a museum / country house drawing room. Good brunch selection and conveniently located off Oxford Street.

Markets
Many Borough Market vendors have since de-camped to Maltby Street. Go early (before noon) to score some legendary St John’s cream donuts then grab a coffee from the push cart and head straight to Monty’s pastrami queue. The Lasco shop is a treasure trove of vintage finds if that’s your thing. If not there’s a wine merchant by the entrance selling good growths from lesser-known producers.

Chef’s gallette by the engaging Frenchman, freshly pulled beer in from the wine shop, pho and Vietnamese iced coffee and then walk along the river and hop into a riverboat café for coffee and cake, or something stronger like a mojito from the riverboat bars.

Recently gentrified, Brixton is no longer grungy and gang-controlled, although Brixton Village is probably the only place overrun by the recent hipster influx. There’s a good selection of eateries and mostly no reservations so where we frequent depends on how hungry we are vs queue length. Aunthentic Thai restaurant that we like by the entrance, but if that’s full we might have Honest Burger or Okan (Japanese street food of fried rice wrapped in omelette) that takes it name from ‘economy’ further in. Almost always stop at Federation Coffee which the mister enjoys but I find the coffee too tart and end up with a hot / cold chocolate. A little way away at Market Row, there’s the famous Franco Manco pizza (wood-fired and as close to Naples as we’ve gotten from London) and Bukowski for burgers, ribs and boozy milkshakes.

Supperclub
The London Foodie’s supper club Angel Islington luizhara@hotmail.com
Luiz is a former investment banker turned Cordon Bleu trained chef who runs a French and a Japanese supperclub from his gorgeous home in Islington. It’s a communal dining table but most dishes are individually plated and it’s always a bit of a lucky dip who you’re seated with. If you’re feeling antisocial, we’ve found it’s best to double date to avoid the awkward small talk. But the one time we went just us, we found ourselves next to hair stylist extraordinaire to whom we’ve since sworn hair loyalty to (Tom Tsang of Smith Salon on Poland Street). Get onto Luiz’ mailing list to snap up supperclub spaces once they become available. £45 for a 7 course Japanese feast. Great quality and always a good night, especially with BYOB :) And if you’re on the market for a haircut, we highly recommend Tom.

For ease of booking, most restaurants can be booked on Bookatable or Toptable, which often run special offers. It’s probably a gimmick but you can accumulate points by turning up at reservations and these points can be redeemed as vouchers.

*does not accept reservations

2 comments:

  1. OMG - what an amazing list! bummed I'm not in London to try them out but have sent the link to a classmate/friend who will be interning in London this summer :) Thank you so much for sharing (AND consolidating) xoxo Rui

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    1. hey rui, can't wait for your next visit. thanks for the thought, and for passing it on X

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